Watchman EVO Front Door Entry System
The electrical systems of the building are 18 years old and in need of routine repairs. Quite a number of the lighting ballasts have been replaced, but the remainder will need renewal in the next couple of years. The on-going repairs are being done as follows:
LA Building and Safety and the Fire Department require that all exit pathways be both marked with illuminated signs and be illuminated to a minimal standard for at least 90 minutes during a power outage. In our case, this is accomplished with individual battery backed-up fixtures each containing a rechargable battery pack. The lifespan for such units is approximately 10 – 12 years. There are five different types of pathway lights in addition to the illuminated exit signs that also have an internal ni-cad battery backup.
The passageway down lights are of two types. The battery backed-up units use 2 – 13 Watt 4-pin CFL lamps with a suitable AC electronic ballast and a Philips Bodine B-94 battery back up unit. The standard down lights use 2 – 18 Watt 4-pin CFL lamps. We are not replacing the ballasts in the 18 Watt units because we are converting them to LED, but when the 13 Watt ballasts are replaced, it is important to replace them with the proper 2 – 13 ballasts. Electricians in the past have put in other units, notably 2 – 26 Watt ballasts which do not last as long. Please do not replace with like ballasts if something other than the proper 2 – 13 Watt units have been installed.
The stairwell lights contain a 38 Watt DD-loop compact fluorescent tube with a standard 4-pin electronic ballast and a Philips Bodine B70A battery backup unit. The original B70 is obsolete and the replacement B70A has an internal transfer relay while the original B70 did not and was wired differently. The new wiring diagram should be followed with the toggle-style test switch wired so both sections of the switch are in parallel. The older wiring used one section of the switch (which is normally closed) to disconnect the AC ballast for testing. This is not needed with the new diagram because the AC switchover is performed in the emergency ballast which now powers the AC ballast rather than connecting it to power through the switch. Mistakes have been made in converting these by following the old wiring. The wire colors have been changed on the updated emergency ballast, so the diagram must be followed, NOT the old wiring
There are four emergency units in the garage. These look like the other four-foot dual inline fixtures, but are fitted with an Iota 24, or equivalent, battery back up unit. The other garage lights look like ordinary fluorescent T-8 fixtures. The standard T-8 fixtures have been rewired for direct-connect LED T-8 lamps that draw 18 as opposed to 28 Watts and last five times as long.
In addition to the garage LED replacement, the 18 Watt CFL downlight fixtures can be retrofitted with LED lamps. These retrofits use LED line voltage replacement lamps that plug into the re-wired 4 – pin lamp sockets and draw only 9 Watts. As the ballasts fail in these units they are replaced with the LED lamps for about the same cost as the ballast replacement. These have a lifespan of 5 years or so. DO NOT REPLACE BALLASTS IN THE 18 WATT FIXTURES. Rewire for the LED lamps according to the diagram supplied with the lamps.
Similarly, the 42 Watt 4-pin CFL lamps on the outside lights along the sidewalk are to be re-wired for the 11 Watt LED vertical lamps when the ballasts fail. Follow the diagram supplied with the lamps and discard the old ballast unit.
The commercial area uses “bug eye” emergency lights and backed-up exit signs similar to those in the residential section. The older bug eye fixtures use a gel cell battery and halogen lamps. When these fail, the units are replaced with the newer LED that use a much smaller internal battery.
Buying the lamps in bulk is worthwhile. The LED replacements can be ordered in smaller quantities because there are fewer of them and they las a long time. The CFLs go out at the rate of one per week or so. Ordering larger quantities results in a saving for the lamps and even the exit signs. 1000 Bulbs has been a reliable supplier for most of the products. A few of the LED lamps are available from specialists, but that is changing and the larger suppliers are stocking most everything. Atlanta Bulbs has been used from time-to-time as well. One of the lamps is available only at Lampsone which is local at 2442 Hunter street. We have been trying to standardize on 3500 deg. Kelvin color temperature. The 3500 degree lamps are a”softer” white that appears more orange in some brands while the 4100 degree lamps are amore stark white. Most institutions try to keep the same color tempereature for all lamps for a more uniform look. Some brands are less readily available in 3500 degree than others, so we are ending up with a mix. Normally the spec will say what temperature the standard CFL Sylvania lamps have a 3-digit code in the part number starting with 8. So 835 is 3500 and 841 is 4100 an so on.
List of Lamp Types
Street and Alley:
42 Watt, 4-pin CFL, 3-loop GX24q-4 Base, 3500 K
Sylvania CF42DTE/E/IN/835/ECO or similar
32 Watt, 4 Pin CFL 3 loop, prefer 3500 K, rated 1600 Hours
Sylvania CF32 DT/E/IN/835/ECO or equivalent
The 42 Watt Street lamps are being replaced as the ballasts fail with a direct wired LED 11 Watt Vertical Position Lamp: Hylite HL-OFB-11W-GR4, 3500 Kelvin. The fixtures must e rewired for direct connection, see above
For fixtures on backup: standard T8, F25T8/835-3500 1000 Bulbs PN TCP-310254F83)
The Basement LED lamps are Life Bulb LBP8F1741A 4000K (3500 was not available) These are direct wired, no ballast
The two long fixtures use standard T8 tubes.
The square fixtures use 38 Watt 4-Pin Double D loop flamps. GE CTNCFLT613822181 A HUN-00 or type F38 2D/835/4P
26 Watt, 4-Pin either short or long G24 Base Sylvania CF26DD/E/835/ECO or equivqlent
The backed-up fixtures use 13 Watt, 4-Pin CFL lamps G24 base. Sylvania CF13DD/E/835/ECO
The fixtures with no backup use 18 Watt, 4-Pin CFL lamps. Sylvania CF13DD/E/835/ECO
The LED replacements for the 18 Watt lamps are direct wired and the ballast must be removed. These are changed if the ballast fails
MAXLED is what we have been using, but others are now available. 8PLG24QLED35 (8 Watt, 50, 000 Hour life)
For the hallway fixtures: Philip-Bodine B94 CGU or any equivalent. The diagram supplied MUST be followed as the wire color conventions have been changed
For the stairwells, Philips-Bodine B70A. The original B70 version is obsolete. The wiring must follow the NEW BALLAST diagram, not the old switch and color configuration. There is a Fullham replacement that is supposed to fit in the housing. It is available from 1000 Bulbs, other vendors on-line have the B70 A.
13 Watt Hallway fixtures: Triad/Universal C213UNVME or equivqlent for two-lamp 4-Pin do not use 2-26 0r 2-18
For atrium, the small unpackaged ballasts are not available use Advance ICN-2F32-N or any equivalent speced for 26 watt, single lamp that will fit
For the basement T8 still using fluorescents, any 2 lamp standard T8 ballast will work.
Notes on Windows (need specs on street-side windows, the following are for inside units)
Facing Courtyard, not facing street
Each sash weighs 48 pounds
Each sash has 4 spiral balances
9/16 in dia
22 inches (56 cm) long
Shoe 9/16 or 17/32 thick
apx 1 1/4 wide
2 in long
1/4 turn ;ock
Lock is blue or green
Highly recommended: Lastiseal Brick and Masonry Sealer
Very low viscosity, really soaks in (but runs like crazy; use drop cloths and tape to floor or walls) Works very well, two coats recommended, but one is pretty good. Non toxic as far as I can tell. Can get it from Amazon. Way better than anything else we know about
From the vendor: LastiSeal is a unique, state-of-the-art, waterproofing sealer for bricks, concrete, mortar, stones, and porous building materials backed by a 15-Year Waterproofing Warranty. This waterborne, polyester-polymer and polyurethane sealer, penetrates up to 4 inches inside brick, mortar, grout, concrete and masonry. LastiSeal fills the pores internally, bonding the substrate and curing as a hard plastic inside. A sealed surfaces will shed water and unless too rough, bead for years to come! UNSURPASSED PROTECTION & SERVICE LIFE – Unlike paints or surface sealers, LastiSeal will not change the appearance or your brick, concrete, or masonry. LastiSeal does not form a surface film and will not leave a gloss finish or color on the surface. Once cured (24 hours), the seal is practically permanent! SAFE, INDOOR/OUTDOOR USE: Seal bricks walls and floors, indoor and outdoors, basement concrete, outdoor concrete, pavers, driveways, pool-decks, patios, stones, tiles, grout, koi-pond, porous stone and even wood! Non-toxic, non-flammable, and non-hazardous. No odor. Ultra-low VOCs. Not harmful to plants. PROTECTS AGAINST: Freeze-thaw damage, wind-driven rain, negative side water pressure, spalling, spills, mold, algae, humidity, and efflorescence. PREP: Remove old paint, adhesives, oil stains, and efflorescence. Let new concrete cure for at least 4 weeks. Mask glass and finished surfaces against over-spray. CONDITIONS: The surface and ambient air must be above 45 °F but not hot in direct sunlight during the application. Surface must be dry. APPLICATION: APPLICATION: Using a hand-pump garden sprayer and a roller, apply a continuous saturating film on the surface and back-roll any puddles. Ready for foot traffic in several hours and for vehicles in 3 days. COVERAGE: Brick – 150-200 sq. ft., Poured Concrete 200-250 sq. ft., Blocks – 100 sq. ft. *More porous building materials may require additional applications (24+ hours later).
Atrium Deck Documents